Light that flattersevery room it fills.

Yes. Since 2020, all rentals require an EICR every 5 years. We inspect and certify. If remedial work is needed, we handle that too.

It depends on things that can only be judged on site: the size of the property, how many circuits and accessory positions you want, whether floors are solid or suspended, how much of the existing wiring can stay, and whether the work runs alongside a refurbishment or into a house you are living in. Those variables move the figure far more than the number of bedrooms does, so a price quoted over the phone is a guess we would only have to revise. The survey is free and the quote is itemised — circuits, consumer unit, accessories, testing — so you can see what each part of the job costs and take anything out that you do not want.

Yes, all the major brands, each on its own dedicated circuit sized for the load. What decides the work is the incoming supply, where the consumer unit sits relative to the parking space, and whether load management is needed so the charger and the rest of the house do not trip the main fuse between them. We check those three things on the survey and quote from what is actually there.

A consumer unit (fuse board) upgrade replaces your old fuse box with a modern unit fitted with RCBOs — individual circuit breakers that provide both overload and earth fault protection per circuit. If your property still has a rewirable fuse board, push-button MCBs without RCD protection, or lacks surge protection, an upgrade is strongly recommended. It's also required during a rewire, when adding new circuits such as an EV charger, or when an EICR identifies safety issues. A modern consumer unit is the foundation of electrical safety in any London home, and the upgrade typically takes half a day.

A typical 3-4 bed London house takes 5-7 working days for a full rewire, including a new consumer unit, all circuits, and testing. A 2-bed flat is usually 3-4 days. You don't normally need to move out, but you should expect some disruption — floorboards lifted, chasing into walls, and intermittent power to certain areas during the work. We plan the sequence room by room so you always have power to essential areas like the kitchen and bathroom. Once wiring is complete, your decorator can make good the cosmetic work, or we can recommend trusted plasterers and decorators we work with regularly.

Yes, and it is the part of the job we care most about. Before any cable is pulled we walk the house room by room and plan the scheme in layers: ambient light off concealed sources, task light where you actually work, accent light on brick, stone, joinery and artwork, decorative fittings as the jewellery, and a low night level for hallways and stairs. Each layer gets its own circuit and its own dimmer, which is what lets one room feel right for breakfast, homework and a dinner party. You get a lighting plan showing fitting positions, beam angles, colour temperature and switching before we start, and we prove positions with temporary fittings while the ceiling is still open.

Almost always a specification problem rather than faulty fittings. The most common cause is a leading-edge dimmer designed for old filament lamps being asked to control electronic LED drivers, which produces buzz and flicker at the bottom of the dial. The second is minimum load: a dimmer rated from 5W upwards will misbehave with two or three 4W lamps on it. The third is mixing fittings from different batches or brands on one channel, so they dim at different rates. We use trailing-edge dimming matched to the specific driver, group circuits so every channel sits inside its working range, and test the combination on site before the ceiling is closed up.

2700K in living rooms, bedrooms and hallways, and 3000K where you need to work in a kitchen, utility or bathroom. Anything cooler than 3000K in a house tends to look clinical, especially against plaster, timber and warm stone. Just as important is consistency: we keep one specification across a floor so adjacent rooms do not read as two different whites, and specify fittings with a colour rendering index of 90 or above so food, skin tones and materials look natural. Where Loxone is installed, tunable white fittings can shift from cooler and brighter in the morning to warm and low in the evening automatically.

Fewer than most quotes assume. A ceiling of evenly spaced downlights lights the floor, flattens the room and puts you in your own shadow at the worktop. We work the other way round: decide what needs to be lit, choose the beam angle, and position fittings from there — usually set well off the walls so light grazes them, with the rest of the level coming from concealed ambient and accent layers. In many rooms the result is half the number of downlights and a much better looking space, on more circuits rather than fewer.

Yes, and this is one of the biggest advantages of rewiring with TechnoActive rather than a traditional electrician. While walls and floors are open, we can run Cat6a data cable to every room, Loxone Tree cable for future smart home automation, speaker cable for multi-room audio, and HDMI or fibre for media distribution — all alongside your standard electrical wiring. Running these cables during a rewire adds only 10-15% to the project cost compared to retrofitting them later, which would mean opening up walls and floors again. Even if you're not ready for a smart home today, having the cabling in place means you can activate it whenever you choose.